Tuscany Restaurant Guide
Here are some of our favorite restaurants in Tuscany including Chianti, Lucca, Maremma, Siena and Southeastern Tuscany.
Chianti
Artimino (in the hills west of Florence)
Biagio Pignatta, Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, 1, (039 055) 8751406.
Da Delfina, Via della Chiesa, 1, (039 055) 8718175. This recommendation came to us from Linda Drake, who said, “it's the top of the top.”
Gelateria la Torre, Via 5 Martiri, 7/A, (039 055) 8718269. Great ice cream.
Bacchereto
La Cantina di Toia, Via di Toia, 12, (039 055) 8717135.
Carmignano
Su Pe’ I’ Canto, Piazza Matteotti 25/26, (039 055 8712490.
Castellina in Chianti
Albergaccio, Via Fiorentina 63, (039 057) 741042. Listed by Gourmet as one of the very fine small restaurants in Chianti with an excellent wine cellar. We can attest to the excellence of the food, and the convenience of the restaurant to those staying in the Castellina area. Al fresco dining in summer.
Antica Trattoria La Torre, Piazza del Comune, 15, (039 0577) 740236. Located in the center of Castellina, at the base of the tower. The food is, at best, mediocre in comparison with the other restaurants in the area, but the restaurant is convenient and inexpensive, and if you should go on a Saturday evening in August, there may be a band and dancing under the stars in the village square across from the restaurant.
Mulino di Quercegrossa, S.R. Chintigiana, 222, (039 0577) 328129. Between Castellina in Chianti and Siena, this is a convenient restaurant if you find yourself returning late from Siena.
Osteria La Piazza, Localita La Piazza, 7, (039 331) 9267403. Located in La Piazza. Take the road to San Donato from Castellina in Chianti. Turn right at the old church (with the distinctive tower with three bells). Look for a sign for La Piazza and Greve. This road leads directly to the restaurant. Prices are medium to high, and the food is very good to excellent.
Pestello's, S. Antonio al Ponte, 36, (039 0577) 740671. Located on the road between Castellina and Poggibonsi, about 7 km. north of Castellina. Food is good and prices are mid-range.
Tenuta di Ricavo, Castellina in Chianti, is a hotel with a restaurant. This recommendation came to us from the Snows of Bryn Mawr, PA, who said, "very good but expensive for the Chianti area.”
Castel Franco di Sopra
Vicolo Del Contento, Localita Mandri, 38, (039 055) 9149277.
Cerbaia
Ristorante La Tenda Rossa, Piazza del Monumento, 9/14, (039 055) 826132. Located on the main piazza of Cerbaia and is one of the most famous restaurants of Italy. To indulge oneself in the culinary delights and expertise of this restaurant is certainly an experience to which everyone should be entitled at least once in a lifetime. Champagne, wines, and aged spirits are the non plus ultra-accompaniment for such exquisite and elaborate cuisine. Cerbaia is situated in the Pesa Valley and marks an important crossing point for the Volterrana and San Casciano-Empoli roads.
Colle di Val d’Elsa
L'Antica Trattoria, Piazza Arnolfo di Cambio, 23, (039 0577) 923747. Colle di Val d'Elsa, is found on the lower part of town on the main square. Many of our guests place this restaurant close to the top of their list, including photographer Bill Brattina and his group of friends from Pittsburgh. It is quite elegant and serves nicely for a special occasion.
Arnolfo, Via XX Settembre, 50, (039 0577) 920549. Offers Tuscan fare with a creative new flair. Try the veal cooked in vin santo with a selection from their outstanding wine list.
Falciani
Trattoria Di Sor Paolo, via Cassia per Firenze, 40, (039 055) 828402. Located along the old Cassia road towards Florence, just before the village of Falciani. Run by the Ciattini brothers, the restaurant offers exquisite Chianti specialties along with a range of traditional but almost forgotten recipes. Inside, the tables are arranged in beautiful dining rooms, and in summer months one can also dine outside on the charming veranda, where tables have been ingeniously created from old Singer sewing machines and marble slabs.
Figline Valdarno
Antica Taverna Casagrande, Via Castelguinelli, 84, (039 055) 9155733. Figline Valdarno, serves traditional Tuscan cuisine in a beautiful setting of 15th century halls and cloisters.
Greve in Chianti
Del Moro, Piazza Trieste, 14, (039 055) 853753. Located in Greve, nice restaurant with fair prices and good food.
Giovanni da Verrazzano, Piazza Matteotti, 28, (039 055) 853189. Located in Greve in Chianti, has a terrace overlooking the lovely central square. Especially good is nana in sugo, duck in wine sauce. Reservations required.
Lamole
Ristoro di Lamole, Via di Lamole, 6, (039 055) 8547050. This recommendation came to us from Buffy Tompkins and Bob Baker. Located in Lamole, off the Strada Chiantigiana near Greve. The drive offers some great views and the restaurant itself has a terrace with a striking panorama. Tasty Tuscan fare is served, along with pizza and “snacks”. Wine tasting is also possible.
Monteriggioni
Il Pozzo, Piazza Roma, 2, (039 0577) 304701. In this beautiful walled village, has been strongly recommended to us by several people. It was the favorite of the Robinsons, who went twice. Time your visit to this pleasant village to coincide with your lunch time.
Panzano in Chianti
Dario Cecchini, via XX Luglio, 11, (039 055) 852020. The butcher in Panzano, is said to “really put on a show and treat guests to lots of samples!”
Enoteca Baldi, Piazza Bucciarelli, 25, (039 055) 852843.Wine and cheese tasting.
Montagliari, Via di Montagliari, 29, (039 055) 852014. Just north of Panzano on the right traveling from Castellina toward Greve and Florence. The restaurant is located on the land of the Cappelli winery. You will see signs for the winery, but in this region signs are posted both before and after you pass a restaurant, so if you still see signs, it does not necessarily mean that you haven't passed it. Dine outside on a pleasant summer evening. Dinners are somewhat uneven, some folks report that they were disappointed, others were very pleased. This was mentioned in Gourmet magazine. It is possible to purchase wine, walnut sauce and other delicacies to take home.
Oltre il Giardino, Piazza Bucciarelli, 42, (039 055) 852828. A new restaurant that many guests have recommended. Food said to be very good and the prices reasonable.
Il Vescovino Restaurante, via dei Ciampoli da Panzano, 9, (039 338) 3648446.
Pratovecchio
Gli Accaniti, Via Fiorentina, 12, (039 0575) 583345.
Poggio A Caiano
Il Falcone, Piazza XX Settembre, 35, (039 055) 877065.
Radda in Chianti
Al Chiasso dei Portici, Chiasso dei Portici, 10, (039 0577) 738774. Located in one of Radda’s most beautiful streets and is worth a visit. The menu is simple but refined, and the wine list is superb. Try the wild boar dishes.
La Cantoniera, Localita Vescine, Podere San Luigi, 35, (039 0577) 735627. Near Radda in Chianti. This recommendation came to us from Al & Pat Gelb of Wilmington, DE, who said, “There is a Scottish hostess, good food and ambience, and friendliness.”
Le Vigne, Localita Podere le Vigne, (039 0577) 738301. Just past Radda in Chianti. This is a charming restaurant set in a hollow surrounded by a vineyard. Here one finds leisurely dining, fine food, and prices comparable to La Piazza.
Sambuca, Val di Pesa
Torricelle, Via Cellini, 30, (039 055) 8071672. Offers traditional dishes from the area and a selection of international cuisine. It also offers swimming and tennis for restaurant guests.
San Casciano, Val di Pesa
Antica Dolce Forneria, Via Machiavelli, 26, (039 055) 820321. Located next to the Caffe Del Popolano on the central road of San Casciano. Reputed to be the best grocery and bakery shop in the area, one can find a broad range of exceptionally high quality products including homemade breads and pastries. The prices are slightly higher than elsewhere, but the extensive offerings and quality of produce more than compensate.
Caffè del Popolano, Via N. Machievelli, 34, (039 055) 8228405. A newly opened restaurant in the busy center of town, the first “enoteca” in San Casciano. The welcoming atmosphere means that the restaurant is often crowded. The menu is a tasty combination of traditional recipes and imaginative cooking, and the ingredients are chosen with great care. There is an extensive wine list.
Cantinetta del Nonno, Via 4 Novembre, 18, (039 055) 8228405. Managed by a group of charming young locals who cook traditional farmers’ food for their customers. The name translates as “the grandfather’s cellar.” Local products can be purchased in the Vineria, behind which is the cozy and simple dining room. The menu is seasonally inspired, with interesting dishes. The wines are chosen from local vineyards.
Da Nello, Via IV Novembre, 66, (039 055) 820163. Offers traditional cooking in beautiful surroundings. A favorite for its simple but extremely good food, impeccable service, and local wines.
Ristorante Il Fedino, Via Borromeo, 7, (039 055) 828612. San Casciano’s most exclusive restaurant, serving delicious dishes from a variety of traditions. The wine list is as refined as the menu, which reflects the Checcucci family’s love for gastronomy. The restaurant can be found as you descend the oldest and shortest road from Piazza della Erbe towards S. Pancrazio.
Trattoria Alimentari Ponterotto, Via Certaldese, 8, (039 055) 828090. An excellent example of a traditional Tuscan family business, conveniently situated half way along the road to San Casciano from San Pancrazio. The epitome of a real trattoria, the food is absolutely traditional, changing only according to the seasons.
La Trattoria del Pesce, Via Cassia per Siena, 124, (039 055) 8249045. Locally popular fish restaurant.
Trattoria “Mamma Rosa”, Via Cassia per Siena, 32, (039 055) 8249193. Off the Firenze-Siena highway, exit Bargino. This recommendation came to us from Buffy Tompkins, who said, “very friendly and good.”
San Donato in Poggio
La Locanda di Pietracupa, Via Madonna di Pietracupa, 31, (039 055) 8072400.
La Toppa, Via del Giglio, 43, (039 055) 8072900. Located in San Donato in Poggio, offers home cooking from Tuscany and Romagna. This recommendation came to us from the Wittemores of New Canaan, CT, who said, "La Toppa deserves a bit more praise - very good food and very friendly staff, even if the atmosphere is not top-notch." The Bessens of Rose Valley, PA, said, "well enough to return for a second meal. They handle tourists very well with a menu in three languages, though most patrons were local Italians."
San Gimignano
Dorandò, Vicolo dell'Oro, 2, (039 0577) 941862. This recommendation came to us from the Bessens, who said, "is special because it serves delicious Etruscan dishes, and provides a menu in which each item has a culinary history and explanation. Also, the dishes were presented artistically in colorful designs.”
Mandragola, Via Berignano, 58, (039 0577) 940377.This recommendation came to us from Dr. Gerald Lavery & Jacqueline Carpenter of Mt. Prospect, IL, who said, “a very good menu and very good ambience.” Via Berignano is one street over from the main street.
Peruca Center Pizzeria, Via Capassi, 16, (039 0577) 941213. Serves good pizza and generous portions of pasta.
Il Pino, Via Cellolese, 6/10, (039 0577) 940415.
Le Terrazze, Piazza Cisterna, 23, 039 0577) 940328. Located on the second floor of the La Cisterna Hotel, this is one of San Gimignano’s most popular and memorable restaurants. This restaurant comes highly recommended by the Bradleys of Rose Valley, PA, for its food and great view. Stop for lunch when visiting this lovely town known for its medieval towers.
Siena
Al Marsili, Via del Castoro, 3(039 0577) 47154. Between Piazza del Campo and the cathedral, offers elegant dining and is graded excellent by the Wittemores. This fine restaurant resides in a 15th century building.
Il Biondo, Via del Rustichetto, 10, (039 0577) 280739. Near San Domenico, this recommendation comes to us from Buffy Tompkins for its “excellent food” and “nice setting.”
Borgo San Felice, Localita San Felice, (039 0577) 3964. Located in Castelnuovo Berardenga, 10 miles north of Siena, is a wine estate.
Mariotti da Mugolone, Via dei Pellegrini, 8/12, (039 0577) 283235.
Osteria le Logge, Via del Porrione, 33, (039 0577) 48013. Located on the street off the Campo to the left (but not alongside) of the city hall and about 50 yards on the left. This recommendation comes to us from the Bessens, who said, "This restaurant serves Sienese-style meals. The two we had were excellent a) crostini with funghi, pasta with fennel, and panna cotta with chocolate, and b) porcine mushroom soup, osso bucco and fresh fruit. The dining room was lined with glass-enclosed bookcases as if it may have been a library or law office at one time. We enjoyed our meal very much." We second the recommendation.
Osteria La Pievina, Via Laurentana, 9, (039 0577) 718093. Located in Asciano
Trattoria La Torre, Via Solicotto, 69, (039 0577) 287548.
Tavarnelle, Val di Pesa
Borgo Antico, Via Roma, 55/57, (039 055) 8076180. Offers typical Tuscan cuisine as well as international dishes. Located in the hotel Vittoria. The atmosphere is simple, the food good and inexpensive.
La Fattoria, Via del Cerro, 11, (039 055) 8070000. One of the best in the area and our favorite. From San Donato, take the superstrada toward Florence. Take the exit, uscita, for Tavernelle, and follow the signs for Tavernelle up the hill towards town. Look for La Fattoria on the left. This restaurant is certainly one of the best in the area and our favorite. You must make a reservation for this one, especially since Florentines dine here. The antipasti are outstanding, especially if you try the medley of dishes by ordering the antipasti, rather than an individual antipasto. Friday evenings there is an incredible antipasto buffet. The pasta dishes are tender and flavorful, particularly the gnocchi in a rucola and walnut sauce. The restaurant is known for its roast suckling pig and specialties grilled on the open hearth. A memorable meal, with a pitcher of mellow estate wine, is on the more expensive side for the area, at about $30 per person, but is worth it. Reservations required.
Osteria di Passignano, Via Passignano, 33, (039 055) 8071278. A very small, exclusive restaurant. In their intimate and thoughtfully arranged dining room, host Marcello and his wife serve remarkably refined cuisine, offering suggestions for the best accompanying wines from their carefully selected list.
Osteria La Gramola, Via delle Fonti, 1, (039 055) 8050321. Wonderful! This recommendation comes to us from Mark Oxman, who said, “terrific.”
Volterra
Ombra della Sera, Via Antonio Gramsci, 70, (039 0588) 86029. Serves delicious ribollita. (See Sasso di Dante restaurant in Florence.)
Osteria dei Poeti, Via Giacomo Matteotti, 55/57, (039 0588) 85100.
Il Poggio, Porta all’Arco, 7, (039 0588) 85257. This recommendation comes to us from John Hanlon and Susan Fischer, who said, “moderately priced, tasty food, warm and friendly owners.” /
Il Porcellino, Vicolo delle Prigioni, 8, (039 0588) 86392. Combines familiar Tuscan favorites with seafood and local delicacies like roast pigeon and boar.
The Maremma Region, Tuscany
Roccatederighi
La Conchiglia, Via Roma, 24/C, (039 0564) 567430
Saturnia
Da Caino, Via Canonica, 3, (039 0564) 602817. Located in Montemerano, reputed to be the best dinner in all of Maremma. This is also an ancient Roman spa, one of the most ancient in the world. Visit Saturnia for the village, the spa and for this restaurant! They have fine tortelli and pappardelle.
Sticciano
Il Frantoio, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 1, (039 0564) 577091. This restaurant is also recommended by the Olds.
Northwestern Tuscany (toward the Apuan Alps and the Riviera)
Lucca
All’ Olivo, Piazza S. Quirico, 1, (-39 0583) 496264.
Antica Locanda dell’ Angelo, Via Pescheria, 21, (039 0583) 467711.
Antico Caffé delle Mura¸ Piazzale Vittorio Emanuele, 2, (039 0583) 467993.
Il Botteghino, Via per Matraia, 1505, (039 0583) 406406. Located in San Pancrazio (outside Lucca). Known for fine “Pasta e Fagioli”. Just a short walk from Villa Torriani.
Buca di Sant’Antonio, Via della Cervia, 3, (039 0583) 55881. Located in a rustic former inn near the church of San Michele, is Lucca’s most famous traditional restaurant.
Da Giulio, Via delle Conce, 45, (039 0583) 55948. Located in Pelleria, near the Piazza San Donato, fills up for lunch, so go early. The “Calamari con Bietola” (squid with beet greens) is one of those dishes that lovers of squid will always remember. Walk past the front of the tourist information center, keeping the city wall on your left, until you reach Via delle Conce.
Da Pinzo, Via Nazionale, 1027, (039 0583) 577760. Located in Ponte a Moriano.
Il Giglio, Piazza del Giglio, 2, (039 0583) 494058. Just off Piazza Napoleone, offers classic cuisine.
La Mora, Via Ludovica, 1748, (039 0583) 406402. Located in Sesto Di Moriano, Ponte a Moriano (Lucca).
Lombardo, Via Pieve S. Stefano, 4801, (039 0583) 394268.
Locanda Buatino, Via Borgo Giannotti, 508, (039 0583) 343207. Areal Italian trattoria, with tables and chairs that don’t match and delicious food.
Vipore, Via della Pieve Santo Stefano, 4469, (039 0583) 394065. Located in Pieve Santo Stefano.
Southeastern Tuscany
Arezzo
Buca di San Francesco, Piazza San Francesco, 1, (039 0575) 23271.
Cetona
Il Sobborgo, Via Sobborgo, 5, (039 0578) 239191. Located in the Piazza of this charming little village, is a nicely appointed restaurant with very good food and a pleasant host.
Cortona
La Loggetta, Piazza Pescheria, 3, (039 0575) 630575. A 16th century wine cellar above the main square of Cortona. This recommendation comes from the Bradleys, who said, "extraordinarily good.”
Osteria del Teatro, Via Maffei, 2, (039 0575) 630556.
Tonino, Piazza Garibaldi, 1, (039 0575) 630500.
Trattoria La Grotta, Piazza Baldelli, 3, (039 0575) 630271. Located on the south west side of Piazza della Repubblica, down an alley. This recommendation comes to us from Victor & Mary Ellen Ham of Bethelham, PA, who said, “a wonderful trattoria with great food and ambience. Get there at 12:30 or the locals will fill it.”
Trattoria Toscana, Via Dardano, 12, (039 0575) 604192.
Montefollonico
La Chiusa, Via della Madonnina, 88, (039 0577) 669668. A very fine and expensive restaurant in a farmhouse on the outskirts of town. Our choice for lunch if you are in the area visiting Pienza and Montepulciano, southeast of Siena.
Pienza
La Cucina di Fiorella, Via Condotti, 11, (039 0578) 749095.
Have a favorite restaurant that we missed? Share it in the comments!
