Umbria Villas

Umbria sits at the centre of Italy, sharing a border with Tuscany to the west and the Marche to the east. It is the only Italian region without a coast — and that, in a country obsessed with the sea, has kept it slower, greener, and less touristed than its famous neighbour.

The towns of Umbria are essentially intact medieval. Assisi (the Basilica of San Francesco with the Giotto fresco cycle), Perugia (the medieval capital with the underground Etruscan well and the Galleria Nazionale), Spoleto (the Festival dei Due Mondi in July, the Roman theatre, the Romanesque cathedral with the Filippo Lippi frescoes), Orvieto (the cliffside town with the Signorelli-frescoed Duomo and the underground city), Todi (the hilltop city Lonely Planet once named the world's most livable town), Gubbio (the medieval town of the Eugubine Tablets), Bevagna, Montefalco, Spello.

The food in Umbria leans toward the woods and the inland — wild boar, white and black truffles (the famous Umbrian black is the cheaper and equally delicious cousin of the Alba white), lentils from Castelluccio, salumi from Norcia (the wild-boar prosciutto, the wild-mushroom salami, the Norcia black truffle salami), porchetta. The wines are Sagrantino di Montefalco (one of the great forgotten Italian reds), Orvieto Classico, Trebbiano. Restaurants: Vespasia at Palazzo Seneca in Norcia (Michelin), L'Acquolina in Perugia, La Stalla in Assisi, Latini in Bevagna, Il Bacco Felice in Foligno.

For travellers who already know Tuscany and want a quieter, less expensive, and frankly more beautiful Italy, Umbria is the answer.

May, June, and September are our favourite months. The Castelluccio fioritura (the lentil-field bloom) runs roughly mid-June to early July and is one of the most extraordinary landscape moments in Italy. Late September and October are the truffle and vendemmia season. Winter is the white-truffle season (November–January) — quiet and atmospheric.

Umbria has a continental inland climate — warmer than the coast in summer, cooler in winter. Monthly highs run from around 50°F in January to 85°F in July. Pool weather is mid-May through late September. Spring and autumn carry rain but are mild.

Black and white Umbrian truffles, lentils from Castelluccio, Norcia salumi (cinghiale prosciutto, mushroom salami, truffle salami), porchetta, umbricelli (hand-rolled noodles), wild-boar ragù, Trasimeno carp. Wines: Sagrantino di Montefalco, Orvieto Classico, Trebbiano Spoletino. Restaurants: Vespasia at Palazzo Seneca in Norcia (one Michelin star), L'Acquolina in Perugia, La Stalla in Assisi, Latini in Bevagna, Il Bacco Felice in Foligno.

Truffle hunts, vineyard tastings (Sagrantino, Orvieto Classico), cooking classes at family farmhouses, the Castelluccio fioritura in June, the Spoleto Festival in July, dawn visits to the Basilica of San Francesco, the Gubbio Funivia, the Marmore Falls.

Assisi (the Basilica), Perugia (the medieval capital), Spoleto (the festival), Orvieto (the cliffside Duomo), Todi (the picture-perfect hilltop), Gubbio (the most intact medieval town), Bevagna and Montefalco (smaller, wine country).

Most of Umbria is within an hour of the others. Cortona (1 hr west into Tuscany), Siena and the Val d'Orcia (2 hr west), the Marche coast at Senigallia (1.5 hr east), Rome (1.5 hr south by car or train).

Yes. Public transport is limited; the towns and villas are spread out. A car (or a private driver for full days) is essential.